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she reclines on a hammock at her summer house in the countryside, Bökars, reading The Letters of F Scott Fitzgerald, copies of Elle and Vogue on her lap  a picture of bohemian, cultured bliss. By contrast, in one 1970s image, skinny jeans she cuts a formidable figure at her printing fact

"I wanted to show what a sari is to my lucky jeans followers from outside the community. My south Asian following loves it because they can relate to my videos, and it's their culture represented by a Malayali woman, a woman who looks like them," says Mathew, who receives questions from curious young south Asian women looking for fashion advice. "I feel like I am the 'big sister' to so many young girls who want to embrace their culture in today's world, be it styling a lehenga or wearing a sari over your jeans." A garment that champions inclusivity, cultural representation and expression of self, it's no wonder that the sari is growing in popularity as everyday madewell jeans wear. It seems young people across the world are changing the narrative and reclaiming the heritage garment, with creators, designers and artists reshaping established beliefs about what a sari is and who wears it.

Marimekko's unmistakable aesthetic is mens skinny jeans indivisible from the adventurous spirit of entrepreneur Armi Ratia, who co-founded the brand in 1951. Photographs of Ratia provide powerful projections of her personality and her brand's ethos. In one photo from the 1960s, she reclines on a hammock at her summer house in the countryside, Bökars, reading The Letters of F Scott Fitzgerald, copies of Elle and Vogue on her lap  a picture of bohemian, cultured bliss. By contrast, in one 1970s image, skinny jeans she cuts a formidable figure at her printing factory in Helsinki sporting a swashbuckling maxi-coat, trousers tucked into boots, looking single-minded and fearless.

Marimekko is still going strong, its carefree spirit encapsulated by its spring/ summer 2021 collaboration with Japanese clothing retailer Uniqlo, featuring roomy dresses emblazoned with the signature bold, colourful, large-scale prints. A book, Marimekko: The Art of Printmaking by Laird Borrelli-Persson, has been published to celebrate the lifestyle brand's 70th anniversary this year, charting how the well-connected, media-savvy Ratia  and the highly individualistic artists she hand-picked to design for her ­ shaped the label's audacious aesthetic."When Armi set up Marimekko, her idea was to avoid well-trodden routes in textile design," says the brand's Minna Kemell-Kutvonen. Polite, itsy-bitsy florals were the norm in the blue jeans textiles world internationally then, but Ratia counterintuitively championed outsized, abstract motifs in offbeat colour combinations.

Forced to pay reparations to Russia, the country was desperately short of resources, and Marimekko's use of low-cost, utilitarian cotton reflected this. In 1953, Ratia hired young designer Vuokko Eskolin-Nurmesniemi, who created the charmingly hand-drawn, pinstripe-like Piccolo print. This found its way onto the Jokapoika shirt  the brand's first men's garment, based on Finnish farmers' shirts, but soon co-opted by women  and loose-fitting dresses also designed by Eskolin-Nurmesniemi. These offered an appealingly blue jeans comfortable alternative to the restrictive, wasp-waisted silhouette of the 1950s.


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